Fox Float Shock Service
- 30-45 Mins
Shock pump
Allen keys - 5mm
Isopropyl alcohol
Fox air can seal kit
Blunt pick
Workshop Towel
- Moderate
Words and Photos by Richard Fox - posted 25/05/2011
Fox Float Shock Service
What you need
- Shock pump
- Allen keys - 5mm
- Isopropyl alcohol or brake cleaner
- Fox air can seal kit, includes Fox Float Fluid
- Blunt pick
- Workshop Towel
Optional Tools
- BOA strap wrench
- Gloves
- Safety glasses (if shock is sucked down)
Note: The model shown is the FLOAT RP23 but it also covers FLOAT, FLOAT R and DHX AIR shocks.
Please refer to your owners manual for full service and maintenance schedules. This does not void your warranty.
First Steps
Check to see if the shock is stuck down or shorter than normal. Do this by measuring from the distance between the mounting bolts (eye-to-eye length) and check it matches the manufacturer’s specification. If your shock is sucked down care should be given to dismantling the shock, please contact a suitable shock service centre or specific manufacturer guides before proceeding. Most people will realise if there is a problem and this is not covered in this article.
Firstly the air needs to be released from the air chamber. Remove the cap and attach the shock pump.
Take a note of the air pressure - pumps often drop the pressure in the shock by 5-10 psi on connecting and removal. Press the button on the shock to release the pressure.
Cycle the shock (push down on the saddle) and press the air release button once more to remove all air.
Whist the shock is still mounted try and turn the air can sleeve towards you (clockwise from the front of the bike).
You should be able to do this by hand but if not use a rubber gripped boa strap wrench. Only do this a 1/4 turn to get it started.
Revove the bolts securing the shock with 2 5mm allen keys (will turn in opposite directions) and remove.
The top bolt on the Five is shorter than the bottom.
Shock removed.
With the shock removed you can then place it on a clean sheet/table to reduce dust contamination (you can wear gloves is you wish).
Remove the air sleeve.
Next is to thoroughly clean the sleeve and other compnents with isopropyl alchohol (IPA) or brake cleaner and dry.
Spray the shock body and dry (you might need to clean again after you remove any seals/spacers).
Seal Change
Picture showing the different washer/spacer options for different Fox shock variations. You also get a small 5cc tube of float fluid (if you don't have any in stock). If it has had a recent seal change then you can skip this section.
If you need to change the seals and spacers select and place them in order of installation.
Using a blunt pick (to reduce damage to the shock body and seals) remove the 2 white backup rings (speckled and slpit) and central seal (Quad ring).
There is a large o-ring within the air can eyelet - you need a pick to remove this - care not to damage the eyelet threads.
Next remove the air sleeve dust wiper and then remove the 2 white spacers (backup rings) and seal (remembering their order).
Note the order of installation.
Either clean the components and lightly lubricate them before reinstalling or replace them with the new ones. You have to pinch the backup rings (as they are not split) to press them back into the sleeve recess - getting all three back in take s a little jiggling but don't bend and crease the rings too much.
Reassembly
Next reinstall the body seals and rings if you have removed them and lightly lubricate them before and after installation.
Lubricate the sleeve rings and seals with the float fluid.
Empty 2cc of the float fluid into the can, especially around the central shaft, keep upright.
Place the shock back into the frame and re-insert the shock bolts (keep upright to save the float fluid from draining out) - the bike should be clean as you will contaminated the internals of the shock!!
Press down on the seat the compress the shock to aid in pushing the sleeve up the shock body.
Screw (anti-clockwise) the sleeve back on (care not to thread the sleeve) to as tight as you can get it by hand.
Tighten the shock bolts - you can use a light thread locker but I have never found the need. I usually do it up hand tight i.e. stem bolt torque.
Pump the shock back up to the correct pressure (usually +5 or 10psi when this is released from removing the shock pump).
Clean any grease off with water soluble cleaner and your finished.
Richard Fox - Features Contributor

Richard has been mountain biking for over 17 years,7 years on his local trails, Dartmoor. He also regularly rides away from home – usually riding each year (while doing the mechanics for others) in various events such as the Cheddar Challenge, Rough Ride, Soggy Bottom, Dyfi Enduro and twentyfour12.
All these years of riding (and breaking) bikes, has resulted in Richard acquiring the wealth of experience (and the tools) to keep his, and inevitably all his riding crew's, bikes on the trails. Richard is a Cyclist No.1 features contributor.
Tools Required:
Appropriate sized spoke key (recommend a Buddy Spokey)
Pen and rubber band or see optional tools
Lube/grease
Optional Tools:
Flat head screw driver (that fits into the nipple head)
Wheel Jig
bladed-spoke-holder tool (or an adjustable spanner)
Maintenance in association with Cycle System Acadmey...

Cycle Systems Academy offers a range of courses, from one day introductory courses in Basic Maintenance, specialist courses such as Brompton Servicing, or learning how to strip out and repair Sturmey Archer Hubs, right through to professional industry training in Level Two and Level Three qualifications recognised and accredited by the Government Qualification and Credit Framework.
Cyclist No.1 has teamed up with Cycle Systems Academy to provide maintenance guides for the home mechanic.
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