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Fox Forks Wiper Seal Service

What you need

• 10mm Hex Socket
• Appropriate suspension fluid (fox 7wt in this case)
• Float Fluid (Anti-friction lube)
• Workshop towel/cloth
• Rubber hammer or similar

Optional Tools

• Allen Key to fit brake lever mounts
• 15mm socket for some forks
• 2mm Allen Key for some forks

Applies to most modern Fox Forks

Please refer to your owners manual for full service and maintenance schedules.

First Steps

If your brake hose is short (applies to most set-ups) you will have to remove the brake lever from the handlebar to remove the outers. Next I would recommend the fork be cleaned so that mud and dust does not contaminate the inner components when the outers are removed.

Then turn the bike upside down and leave for a few minutes so that the fluid in the dampening chamber and the spring chamber is emptied into the stantions.

Firstly RC2 and RLC models of fork have a compression adjuster which needs to be removed by loosening the grub screw with a 2mm Allen key.

Remove both retaining nuts off both lower legs with a 10mm socket.

Note: The thread inside the lower on the left hand leg is slotted inside and when loose will spin.

When removing unscrew the nuts then replace partly and then with the socket still in place strike the head of the socket/wrench gently a few times to loosen the outer from the inner components. For 36 and 40 forks you need a 15mm socket to remove the retaining nut on the damper side (right hand side) and on RLC models make sure you don't fowl the adjuster shaft with the socket when striking (level of the nut should not expose the adjuster shaft).

Make sure you don't lose the crush washers off the inside of each nut when removed - if split or markedly deformed you can purchase new washers from Fox.

Next lift off the lowers and keep inverted to prevent contamination of the inside of the lowers until you're ready to clean the seals. Some fluid will drop onto the floor but should only be a few drops.

With outers removed showing the uppers and rods.

Inside the outers you will see the seal (top), foam inserts (middle) and bushing (lower).

Remove the foam rings from both sides with a small pointed item or if your fingers are small enough.

Clean the Foam rings. I squeeze them dry in an adsorbent towel and then rinse though with clean suspension fluid, then squeeze dry again and do this a few times rather than using degreaser/solvent. Picture: Before clean.

During cleaning.

After cleaning.

Then use the Float Fluid in a small tub and soak the seal in the fluid and squeeze out excess. The mojo quick guide however suggests just putting lube over the top of the seal without cleaning. Dirt is often trapped in the foam and I feel cleaning is as important as applying the anti-friction float fluid.

Next, before you refit the foam rings, clean the seals with clean lint free cloth or workshop towel. You can use a little IPA in the cloth (Isopropyl Alcohol) but I don't find it necessary.

Refit the foam rings. Make sure they are not twisted.

Clean off uppers carefully before refitting.

Before refitting, re-extend the right hand side rod so you can re-thread the nut when the lower is replaced.

When replacing outers make sure the seals fit on the uppers properly with no kinks/folds etc.

Before fitting the nuts, put about 5ml of suspension fluid (not float fluid) in each leg to replace the amount lost in removing and cleaning the outers. I estimate with 2 squeezes of an old chain lube bottle filled with clean fluid. On Talas forks it is recommended to use 10ml (4 squeezes) of fluid on the Talas side (left) and 15ml for 36 Talas forks.

If you are not using new compression washers then it's often easier to thread on the old one before putting the nut on, especially on the right leg.

Replace both nuts.

Preferably using a torque wrench, tighten each nut to 50in-lbs or 5.5Nm.

Clean the inside of the adjuster cap.

Replace adjuster cap locating the grub screw into the depression in the adjuster shaft.

Clean any excess fluid off the seal and outers before inverting the bike to reduce the risk of brake calliper contamination.

Refit the brake lever to the manufacturers torque specifications. Cycle the forks several times after leaving them for a few minutes to let the fluid recirculate.

Finished - You'll find you get quicker every 15 hours of riding!!

Richard Fox - Features Contributor

Richard has been mountain biking for over 17 years,7 years on his local trails, Dartmoor. He also regularly rides away from home – usually riding each year (while doing the mechanics for others) in various events such as the Cheddar Challenge, Rough Ride, Soggy Bottom, Dyfi Enduro and twentyfour12.

All these years of riding (and breaking) bikes, has resulted in Richard acquiring the wealth of experience (and the tools) to keep his, and inevitably all his riding crew's, bikes on the trails. Richard is a Cyclist No.1 features contributor.

Maintenance in association with Cycle System Acadmey...

Cycle Systems Academy offers a range of courses, from one day introductory courses in Basic Maintenance, specialist courses such as Brompton Servicing, or learning how to strip out and repair Sturmey Archer Hubs, right through to professional industry training in Level Two and Level Three qualifications recognised and accredited by the Government Qualification and Credit Framework.

Cyclist No.1 has teamed up with Cycle Systems Academy to provide maintenance guides for the home mechanic.

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