• Hope Pro II Front Hub Service

  • 20 mins
  • Mole wrench or similar pliers

    Hammer

    Hope Pro II Front Bearing Kit

    Large flat-head screwdriver

    Hope Pro II Drift Kit (Tool Kit)

    Synthetic grease

  • Easy-Moderate

Words and Photos by Richard Fox - posted 8/07/2010

Hope Pro II Front Hub Service

Following on from our Pro II rear hub service, here is how to service your Pro II front hub.

What you need

  • Mole wrench or similar pliers
  • Hammer
  • Hope Pro II Front Bearing Kit or compatible bearings - 2x 6804 2rs
  • Wooden supports
  • Large flat-head screwdriver
  • Hope Pro II Drift Kit (Tool Kit) or suitably sized sockets
  • Grease (preferably Synthetic)

Disassembly

Remove quick release skewer or thru-bolt – (illustrated QR set-up).

Pull out the end caps off each side (they are the same). If tight clamp a mole wrench or pliers onto the hard metal rims rather than the softer alloy ends. A vice maybe needed but unlike the rear caps the front end caps rarely require major force.

Sometimes the rubber o-ring maybe perished if old and may need replacing as these keep the caps from falling out when the QR is removed. At this point the bearings can be checked and if rough they likely need replacing.

Replacing Bearings

Using a screwdriver push down the central space (aluminium ring) to expose the inner aspects of the cartridge bearing.

You can support the hub on wooden supports to knock the bearing out from the inside but little force is needed and can be struck with the wheel supported vertically. Using the screwdriver knock out the opposite bearing from the inside (you may need to strike it a few times working around the bearing). This can damage the bearing so obviously this is performed when the bearings need replacing.

Remove the spacer (it also has a rubber ring on the outside to keep it in place when the axle/QR is removed).

Turn the wheel around and knock the bearing out from the opposite side.

At this point you can clean the end caps, inside the hub and the spacer. You can put a little grease inside the hub at each end to aid installation of the new bearings. Place the one of the new bearings into the hub by hand. Although not officially recommended, I carefully prise off the seals with a stanley blade, taking care, and put a bit more grease in as sometimes they are a bit dry.

Replace the spacer (Don't forget this!)

Put the opposite bearing in by hand. Then insert the front bearing drift in one side and lay that side down on a hard surface. Then place the other drift in the other side.

Using a hammer strike the drift several times to drive both bearings in. Wipe a bit of grease around the inside of each bearing both sides and then re-insert the end caps.

Replace the QR and you're done!

Richard Fox - Features Contributor

Richard Fox

Richard has been mountain biking for over 17 years,7 years on his local trails, Dartmoor. He also regularly rides away from home – usually riding each year (while doing the mechanics for others) in various events such as the Cheddar Challenge, Rough Ride, Soggy Bottom, Dyfi Enduro and twentyfour12.

All these years of riding (and breaking) bikes, has resulted in Richard acquiring the wealth of experience (and the tools) to keep his, and inevitably all his riding crew's, bikes on the trails. Richard is a Cyclist No.1 features contributor.


Maintenance in association with Cycle System Acadmey...

Cycle Systems Academy offers a range of courses, from one day introductory courses in Basic Maintenance, specialist courses such as Brompton Servicing, or learning how to strip out and repair Sturmey Archer Hubs, right through to professional industry training in Level Two and Level Three qualifications recognised and accredited by the Government Qualification and Credit Framework.

Cyclist No.1 has teamed up with Cycle Systems Academy to provide maintenance guides for the home mechanic.

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