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Hope Pro II Rear Hub Service

This maintenance article covers the Hope Pro II rear hub only, the Hope Pro II front hub is covered seperately.

What you need

• Spanner (to fit lock ring tool) and chain whip
• Mole wrench or similar pliers
• Firm rubber hammer or soft mallet
• Hope Pro II Bearing Kit or compatible bearings - 6802 2rs x2, 6903 2rs x2, 6902 2rs x1
• Cassette lock ring remover tool
• Wooden supports
• Large flat-head screwdriver
• Suitably sized sockets
• Grease (preferably Synthetic)

Optional Tools

• Torque wrench (45nm setting)
• Hope Pro II Drift Kit (Tool Kit)
• Hope Nylon Wheel - Hub Support Bush

Disassembley

Remove quick release skewer or thru-bolt – (illustrated QR set-up)/ Engage lock-ring remover into splines/notches.

Hold a sprocket in clockwise direction with sprocket chain whip tool. Turn remover counter-clockwise, using a large adjustable or socket wrench (may require moderate force or an extension to the wrench handle).

When the lock ring is removed the cassette can be pulled off the freehub. The first 3 sprockets are often separate from the body of the cassette in higher end cassettes. (Alloy freehub bodies like the Pro II are sometimes scored and the sprockets and or body can get stuck. If so you can remove the whole freehub body and cassette assembly and knock through the freehub on a vice allowing the freehub to drop out beneath. You can file down any proud metalwork)

Pull out the end caps off each side and note which side is which. Clamp onto the hard metal rims rather than the softer alloy ends. A vice maybe needed as they often stick.

Pull off the freehub body; sometimes a rotating motion helps.

Remove hub spacer (don't lose it!)

Support non-drive side (ND) hub/disc with wooden supports or similar (or buy the Hope Nylon Wheel - Hub Support Bush) and knock out the axle and the ND bearing with a hard rubber mallet.

Remove bearing from axle by supporting it in a vice and tap through.

Repeat the process with the drive side (DS) bearing and again support the hub outer face with supports. Place the axle end which you have removed the bearing from into the inside of the hub into the ND bearing. Knock through with the rubber hammer. Remove axle and bearing and remove the bearing from the axle as before. Remove the green rubber seal from the non-drive side with a small screwdriver or braddle. This will also remove the green rubber seal.

Freehub Body Service

Remove all pawls and springs using a small screwdriver or braddle as they slide out of their respective grooves into the freehub body.

Remove hub sealing ring

Knock out the single outer bearing by placing the outer side of the freehub body on a flat hard surface. Use a screwdriver or similar tool to push the inner spacer (alloy) to one side to expose the bearing. Knock the bearing out buy multiple small taps around the circumference of the bearing.

Once removed take out the spacer. Turn upside-down and support the edges of the freehub body (can use the wooden supports or a vice as pictured) and using a larger drift if possible knock out the two remaining bearings (generally easier than the first).

Clean each non-bearing component with degreaser, Check bearing function and if at all rough replace bearings using Hope ProII bearing Kit (cheaper Pro II compatible bearings are available if required).

Place a small quantity of synthetic grease onto the outer aspects of each bearing before re-insertion. You can support the freehub body in the hope support bush if you have it. Using a makeshift drift of a suitable sized socket (I find a 16mm and 21mm best) you can easily knock the bearings back in the reverse order of removal (i.e. 2 inner bearings, spacer and larger out bearing).

Unlike this photo use the back of the socket (i.e. upside down) then you are less likely to damage the seals.

Place grease in the pawl and spring recesses. Replace one spline then the matching pawl. Finally replace the plastic freehub body seal.

Hub Reassembly

Clean all component non-bearing parts with degreaser including inside the end caps and coat the replacement main hub bearings with grease.

Place one bearing onto the ND end of the axle, insert into the ND end of the hub. Insert the remaining bearing onto the axle via the DS end of the hub.

Using either the official Hope Pro II service kit drifters (makes the job very easy) or makeshift sockets, assemble and place the ND hub onto a hard service. Hit the DS drifter sever times, hard using a Rubber hammer so both bearings are inserted. Put a small amount of grease over the teeth inside the DS hub.

Remove drifters and replace the hub spacer onto the DS axle. Also replace Green seal on the ND by lightly tapping it in with the drifter.

Place the freehub seal tool (hope Pro II kit) onto the freehub and push the freehub back onto the hub and knock in place with a rubber hammer to make sure the freehub seal is in place.

Replace end caps.

Replace Cassette and sprockets in the right order and the right way around by locating the widest tooth on the freehub body and the widest notch on the sprocket/cassette body.

Replace the lock ring and tighten to manufacturers’ specification with a torque wrench (some people just tighten as hard as they can). Replace QR.

Done!

Richard Fox - Features Contributor

Richard has been mountain biking for over 17 years,7 years on his local trails, Dartmoor. He also regularly rides away from home – usually riding each year (while doing the mechanics for others) in various events such as the Cheddar Challenge, Rough Ride, Soggy Bottom, Dyfi Enduro and twentyfour12.

All these years of riding (and breaking) bikes, has resulted in Richard acquiring the wealth of experience (and the tools) to keep his, and inevitably all his riding crew's, bikes on the trails. Richard is a Cyclist No.1 features contributor.

Maintenance in association with Cycle System Acadmey...

Cycle Systems Academy offers a range of courses, from one day introductory courses in Basic Maintenance, specialist courses such as Brompton Servicing, or learning how to strip out and repair Sturmey Archer Hubs, right through to professional industry training in Level Two and Level Three qualifications recognised and accredited by the Government Qualification and Credit Framework.

Cyclist No.1 has teamed up with Cycle Systems Academy to provide maintenance guides for the home mechanic.

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