Hope Tech Lever Brake Bleed

This works for most Hope brakes. M4 brake illustrated.

What you need

• 4mm & 5mm Allen keys
• Small flathead screwdriver
• 8mm spanner
• T10 Torx screwdriver/bit
• DOT 5.1 brake fluid (~100ml)
• Plastic transparent pipe (~4mm)
• Plastic lidded pot and string

Optional Tools

• New diaphragm for master cylinder
• Hope bleed kit

First Steps

Begin by making your bleed kit (or you can buy the Hope bleed kit). Get a plastic pill-type pot and punch a hole through the lid and insert the clear plastic tubing (approximately 20cm x ~4mm - find some that fits - aquatic tubing or garden supplier). Then tie some string or similar around the lid so you can tie it to the brake caliper.

Bleeding the brakes

Firstly remove the wheel and brake pads to prevent contamination (I find a bike stand really helps). To remove brake pads, remove the little retaining  clip and undo the threaded pin, slide out and the pads can be pushed through with your finger from the top of the caliper. Push the caliper pistons back into their bores (care as the new brakes have soft phenolic pistons so push them back either with old pads in or lever behind the pad) and insert a spacer between the pistons. I use an old set of pads and some small pieces of metal to replace the rotor and wrap around with tape to keep the inserts in. You can get commercial piston wedges.

Firstly loosen the lever bolts so the lever can spin on the bar.

If necessary reposition the brake lever so that the lever and master cylinder are horizontal to the ground.

Remove the master cylinder cap using a T10 Torx screwdriver. Then remove the rubber diaphragm.

Wind out the brake pad contact so the lever throw is greatest for later.

Place the closed end of an 8mm spanner over the bleed nipple on the brake caliper after removing the dust cover.

Tie the bleed pot to an appropriate location and push the tube onto the bleed nipple - ensure a good fit. The free end of thetube does not need to be submerged under brake fluid.

Bleeding procedure

Fill the master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid. DOT 4 and 5.1 can be mixed for older brakes but its best to flush out the 4 with 5.1 during bleeding or stick with 4 if older style brakes. DOT 5 CANNOT be mixed with 4 or 5.1.

Open the bleed nipple a 1/4 turn. 

Slowly pull the brake lever to the handle bars and hold.

You can see the condition of the brake fluid when it enters the tube.

Close the bleed nipple. Release the lever. Squeezing the lever too fast will cause brake fluid to squirt out of the master cylinder.

Repeat the bleeding procedure until no air is seen coming out of the bleed nipple. You will need to keep refilling the reservoir during this operation. When finished pinch the tube before removing to reduce brake fluid spillage onto the caliper.

Place a rag around the master cylinder to catch any spillage and fill the master cylinder to just below the top surface. Briefly replace the master cylinder seal and cap and lightly tighten with the Torx screwdriver to seal the chamber.

Rotate the lever to the vertical plane. As the main bore from the master cylinder is in a different location to older levers, air needs to be removed. Pumping the brake lever a few times, also giving the lever a tap with a rubber hammer, will remove air trapped in the lever.

Return the lever to the horizontal position, remove the master cylinder cap and diaphragm and top up to full again with brake fluid. You can use a rag underneath to catch excess fluid.

Keeping the rag in place, replace the diaphragm (a new one is advised by Hope but just inspect it for wear or damage) using a rolling motion to exclude air from the master cylinder.

Replace the cap and tighten the Torx screws for the final time - catching and excess DOT in the rag. Spray the lever with water to remove brake fluid residues and to prevent it from etching paintwork or spoiling seals etc.

Equalising the pistons.

This will improve braking performance and reduce rubbing of pads on the disc when not in use.

Replace pads and wheel.

The pistons should move in, then return about equally, relative to the rotor. If they don’t put a small flat head screwdriver behind the pad (between the back of the pad and piston) which is closer to the caliper body so it allows the piston behind to protrude further. With your free hand, squeeze the lever a couple of times, forcing the pad that was furthest away to extend towards the disc beyond its original travel point. Remove the screwdriver and pull the lever several times. This will establish new piston protrusion points. Repeat as necessary.

Remember to reset the lever reach and pad contact adjusters and make sure bleed nipples are firmly closed and dust covers are replaced. Also check all lever calmp bolts are tight.

Thats it folks!

Richard Fox - Maintenance Contributor

Richard has been mountain biking for over 15 years on his local trails, the South Downs. He also regularly rides away from home – usually riding each year (while doing the mechanics for others) in various events such as the Cheddar Challenge, Rough Ride, Soggy Bottom, Dyfi Enduro and twentyfour12.

All these years of riding (and breaking) bikes, has resulted in Richard acquiring the wealth of experience (and the tools) to keep his, and inevitably all his riding crew's, bikes on the trails. Richard now shares that knowledge via Cyclist No.1 as a maintenance contributor.

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