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Shimano Ultegra (Hollowtech II) Crank Service

What you need

• 5mm Allen Key
• End Cap Tool - TL-FC16
• Bottom Bracket Tool (e.g. TL-FC32) +/- Spanner
• Synthetic grease
• Workshop Towel

Optional Tools

• Rubber Hammer
• Combination Crank Tool (incorporates BB Tool and End Cap Tool)
• Torque Wrench
• Fine Nose Pliers if end cap tool not available

Note

Although this is a road crankset this method applies to the majority of the Shimano Hollowtech II crank systems on the market including Deore, LX, SLX and XT.

First Steps

Place the bike in a workstand and raise up to make the job easier - use the seat post to clamp as some force maybe required to remove the bottom bracket cups. Using a 5mm Allen key loosen both crank bolts anti-clockwise. Sometimes this is easier to part loosen one side and then part loosen the other opposing bolt.

One loose use a suitable end cap tool such as the TL-FC16 shown below. You can use a make shift tool such as set of narrow-nosed pliers if required as this cap is not fitted particularly tight.

End cap removed.

Next the cranks are still attached loosely via the stopper plate and plate pin. You need to push this upwards to elevate the pin from the locator hole in the end of the axle.

The crank arm should be easily to remove by a gentle tug. Note the locator hole in the axle. If stif,f place a piece of wood or similar deforming material into the end of the crank (smaller than the end of the non-drive crank hole) to try and tap the axle through.

Remove the chain from the chainrings.

Tap the end of the axle with a rubber hammer and the axle will slip.

Pull on the drive side crank and it should easily pull out of the bottom bracket.

Removing bottom bracket

You may not need to remove the bottom bracket if the bearings/cups are still clean and running smoothly. If they are not then you may want to either give them a clean and re-grease or just replace them given their relatively low after-market cost or replace with another manufacturers bottom bracket.

Using a compatible bottom bracket cup removal tool such as the Park Tool BBT-19, place snugly over each cup. You can put an old wheel quick release though the axle to secure the tool if required. Using a spanner or wrench (or if you have a combined tool) loosen anti-clockwise.

When removing the cup the spacer may also be removed with it, if not it will be removed with the other cup.  (stosp water penetrating the cups from down the tubes entering the bottom bracket). Note any spacers present between the bottom bracket shell and each cup and not the drive and non-drive side bearing cup to make reassembly easier.

Removing drive-side cup.

Next clean the bottom bracket threads.

Clean cups and check for smoothness. The top hats (plastic inserts covering the inner bearing surfaces on both sides) are made of brittle plastic so care should be taken removing them if bearing cleaning and inspection is required. The bearings cannot be easily be removed without hammering them out from the inside. However the bearing seal can be carefully removed with a stanley blade (not officially recommended) and the bearings inspected, cleaned with degreaser, dried and re-greased (see our headset article). Not shown in this article.

Reassembly

Clean all non-bearing components with degreaser and dry. Next regrease the bottom bracket threads or use anti-seize compound.

Grease contact points on the axle and the splined end.

Replace each bearing cup as removed including the plastic spacers if present (right number on each side) and include the spacer between the cups, inside the bottom bracket.

Slide the drive side crank back into the bottom bracket.

To replace the non-drive side crank arm locate the stopper place and raise the pin before inserting it onto the axle.

Align the plate / split crank end and the locator hole in the axle.

Push the plate back into the crank end to locate the crank arm (note below the plate is still raised) and screw in the cleaned and greased end cap until hand tight.

Use the end cap tool and screw the end cap until hand tight (apparently 0.7 - 1.5 Nm / 6 - 13 in.lbs) !!

Preferably using a torque wrench alternatively tighten each crank bolt until 12-14nm is reached. As with all paired bolts, alternate between the two until they're tight. I have stripped the threads before trying to do them up too tight.

Replace the chain onto the appropriate chain ring and you're finished.

Richard Fox - Features Contributor

Richard has been mountain biking for over 17 years,7 years on his local trails, Dartmoor. He also regularly rides away from home – usually riding each year (while doing the mechanics for others) in various events such as the Cheddar Challenge, Rough Ride, Soggy Bottom, Dyfi Enduro and twentyfour12.

All these years of riding (and breaking) bikes, has resulted in Richard acquiring the wealth of experience (and the tools) to keep his, and inevitably all his riding crew's, bikes on the trails. Richard is a Cyclist No.1 features contributor.

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