Time ATAC Pedal Overhaul
What you need
- 10mm Socket
- Pedal Spanner
- Workshop Towl
- Fine Nose Pliers
- Small Hammer
- Bearing Grease
- Torque Wrench
- Cotton Buds
- Allen Keys
- 696Z or 696ZZ (Carbon/Stainless) Bearings
- Spare Bushings: ATAC pedals - (10x14x16mm) (Iglidur JSM1014-16).
- Spare Bushings: Z Control, ATAC Alium (actually 16mm length but unavailable) - (10x12x15mm) (Iglidur JSM1012-15) (thanks to Uplink and Ambrose off STW)
This guide covers all ATAC pedals including Alium, ROC, XE, XS models and platforms inc. ROC and Z Controls.
Firstly if you are experiencing lateral movement between the pedal body and the axle then this is usually caused purely by a loose bearing/end cap. Simply use some fine nose pliers to turn the plastic cap clockwise to do it up again. If this happens a lot then use some thread lock to prevent it working loose due to vibration.
Make sure the outside of the pedal is clean to prevent contamination of the inner workings of the pedal.
Remove the bearing/end cap to expose the nylock axle nut.
The end cap is made of resin and so be carefull not to damage the holes as you remove it.
Next you can either use an allen key (select appropriate size depending on type of pedal) or a pedal spanner on the threaded end of the axle (of you can keep the pedal on the bike but only if you have a bike stand and/or a good back!) and then use a 10mm socket (doesn't have to be a deep socket) - turn the socket anti-clockwise to remove the nut.
Removing the nut exposes the bearing. The bearing is not held in very tight.
Use a hard flat-headed object (large hex headed socket shown above) to knock the end of the axle to drive the axle from the bearing. You don't need to hit it very hard and do it over a cloth to catch the axle.
The bearing will drop out the other end when you invert the pedal body. You will have an axle with seal, pedal body, bearing and nylock nut.
There is often a collection of grime inside the pedal body recess - you can soak the pedal body in degreaser but the internals are usualy clean. The yellow bushing can be seen above.
Cotton buds can be used to collect dirty grease/grime without forcing it into the inside of the pedal body/bushing.
Take off the seal and look at the axle. As can be seen above there sometimes is a little corrosion. The rest of the components also need cleaning.
Clean the seal with degreaser.
At this point if your bushing is worn (unlikely unless it runs very rough or there is serious radial play when assembled) you can attempt to remove the bushing. There is a seal at one end, pushed onto the bushing. From the opposite end (bearing end) the bushing can be pushed out with a suitably sized drift (outer diam 14mm). You may damage the old bushing and thus should only be performed if you are sure it needs replacing!
Place the seal with the flat edged side toward the crank end.
Use decent bearing grease (Shimano Grease used above) and lightly grease the bushing part of the axle.
Grease the bearing end of the axle.
Grease the bearing recess.
Inset the axle into the axle body.
Pop the bearing in so it sits nicely on the end of the axle.
Put the nylock nut on making sure the blue nylon ring is on the outside.
You can then tighten the whole assembly up - if you want to use a torque wrench to be sure I use about 10nm which is about hand tight. You can also put a bit more grease onto the bearing before you screw the cap back on.
All there is left to do it to screw on the bearing/end cap.
I would then make sure you have adjusted the spring tension screw on each side (had a flat side and a progressive cam).
I would finish the pedals off with some light lube to stop any squeaks.
All you have to do now is the other pedal and put them back on the cranks.