• Time ATAC Pedal Overhaul

  • 30-45 Mins
  • 10mm Socket

    Pedal Spanner

    Degreaser

    Workshop Towl

    Fine Nose Pliers

    Small Hammer

    Bearing Grease

     

     

  • Moderate

Words and Photos by Richard Fox - posted 18/09/2011

Time ATAC Pedal Overhaul

What you need

  • 10mm Socket
  • Pedal Spanner
  • Degreaser
  • Workshop Towl
  • Fine Nose Pliers
  • Small Hammer
  • Bearing Grease

Optional Tools

  • Torque Wrench
  • Cotton Buds
  • Allen Keys

Repair Components

  • 696Z or 696ZZ (Carbon/Stainless) Bearings
  • Spare Bushings: ATAC pedals - (10x14x16mm) (Iglidur JSM1014-16).
  • Spare Bushings: Z Control, ATAC Alium (actually 16mm length but unavailable) - (10x12x15mm) (Iglidur JSM1012-15) (thanks to Uplink and Ambrose off STW)

This guide covers all ATAC pedals including Alium, ROC, XE, XS models and platforms inc. ROC and Z Controls.

NOTE

Firstly if you are experiencing lateral movement between the pedal body and the axle then this is usually caused purely by a loose bearing/end cap. Simply use some fine nose pliers to turn the plastic cap clockwise to do it up again. If this happens a lot then use some thread lock to prevent it working loose due to vibration.

Time ATAC Servicing

Disassembly

Make sure the outside of the pedal is clean to prevent contamination of the inner workings of the pedal.

Time ATAC Servicing

Remove the bearing/end cap to expose the nylock axle nut.

Time ATAC Servicing

The end cap is made of resin and so be carefull not to damage the holes as you remove it.

Time ATAC Servicing

Next you can either use an allen key (select appropriate size depending on type of pedal) or a pedal spanner on the threaded end of the axle (of you can keep the pedal on the bike but only if you have a bike stand and/or a good back!) and then use a 10mm socket (doesn't have to be a deep socket) - turn the socket anti-clockwise to remove the nut.

Time ATAC Servicing

Removing the nut exposes the bearing. The bearing is not held in very tight.

Time ATAC Servicing

Use a hard flat-headed object (large hex headed socket shown above) to knock the end of the axle to drive the axle from the bearing. You don't need to hit it very hard and do it over a cloth to catch the axle.

Time ATAC Servicing

The bearing will drop out the other end when you invert the pedal body. You will have an axle with seal, pedal body, bearing and nylock nut.

Time ATAC Servicing

There is often a collection of grime inside the pedal body recess - you can soak the pedal body in degreaser but the internals are usualy clean. The yellow bushing can be seen above.

Time ATAC Servicing

Cotton buds can be used to collect dirty grease/grime without forcing it into the inside of the pedal body/bushing.

Time ATAC Servicing

Take off the seal and look at the axle. As can be seen above there sometimes is a little corrosion. The rest of the components also need cleaning.

Time ATAC Servicing

Clean the seal with degreaser.

Time ATAC Servicing

At this point if your bushing is worn (unlikely unless it runs very rough or there is serious radial play when assembled) you can attempt to remove the bushing. There is a seal at one end, pushed onto the bushing. From the opposite end (bearing end) the bushing can be pushed out with a suitably sized drift (outer diam 14mm). You may damage the old bushing and thus should only be performed if you are sure it needs replacing!

Reassembly

Time ATAC Servicing

Place the seal with the flat edged side toward the crank end.

Time ATAC Servicing

Use decent bearing grease (Shimano Grease used above) and lightly grease the bushing part of the axle.

Time ATAC Servicing

Grease the bearing end of the axle.

Time ATAC Servicing

Grease the bearing recess.

Time ATAC Servicing

Inset the axle into the axle body.

Time ATAC Servicing

Pop the bearing in so it sits nicely on the end of the axle.

Time ATAC Servicing

Time ATAC Servicing

Put the nylock nut on making sure the blue nylon ring is on the outside.

Time ATAC Servicing

You can then tighten the whole assembly up - if you want to use a torque wrench to be sure I use about 10nm which is about hand tight. You can also put a bit more grease onto the bearing before you screw the cap back on.

Time ATAC Servicing

All there is left to do it to screw on the bearing/end cap.

Time ATAC Servicing

I would then make sure you have adjusted the spring tension screw on each side (had a flat side and a progressive cam).

Time ATAC Servicing

I would finish the pedals off with some light lube to stop any squeaks.

All you have to do now is the other pedal and put them back on the cranks.

Richard Fox - Web Editor

Richard Fox

Richard has been mountain biking for over 18 years, 8 years on his local trails, Dartmoor. He also regularly rides away from home – usually riding each year (while doing the mechanics for others) in various events such as the Bristol Bikefest series, Dyfi Enduro and twentyfour12 and a fair few others.

He is also a secret roadie and participates in many sportives including his local Dartmoor Classic 100 and Endura Lionheart to name but a few - Shhhh

All these years of riding (and breaking) bikes, has resulted in Richard acquiring the wealth of experience (and the tools) to keep his, and inevitably all his riding crew's, bikes on the trails.

He also completed John O'Groats to Lands End road ride for charity in 8 days in 2012

Richard is the Cyclist No.1 Web Editor.


Maintenance in association with Cycle System Acadmey...

Cycle Systems Academy offers a range of courses, from one day introductory courses in Basic Maintenance, specialist courses such as Brompton Servicing, or learning how to strip out and repair Sturmey Archer Hubs, right through to professional industry training in Level Two and Level Three qualifications recognised and accredited by the Government Qualification and Credit Framework.

Cyclist No.1 has teamed up with Cycle Systems Academy to provide maintenance guides for the home mechanic.

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