• Riding the Sierra de los Filabres

  • Scott heads to Southern Spain with Mountain Biking Spain to check out the lesser known Sierra de los Filabres

Words and photos by Scott Cornish - posted 09/05/2010

Riding the Sierra de los Filabres

Driving from Alicante airport, thoughts of the wet trails back home soon vanished. I was heading to the Sierra de los Filabres, an extensive range of mountains offering a host of varied riding. It is relatively unknown, but somewhat of a gem. Peaking at 2168m in the central region, It’s average height may not rival that of the Sierra Nevada, but there’s enough riding here to keep the hardiest of climbers happy and make the enduro riders smile. With 100s of kms of trail, the choices are seemingly endless; rarely do tyres have to hum along tarmac. The trails vary from technical and rocky to fast and open. But there are no lift assists here, so a bike which can be pedalled upwards is highly recommended. Once the effort of the ascent is over though, the rewards are plenty.

With the plethora of trail options and to get the most of the riding here in a week, a guide is essential. I stayed with Vic and Einat of Mountain Biking Spain in Almanzora, right at the edge of the Filabres. Also out this week was my good friend from Sheffield, Mark. A rider with a good amount of zest in his legs and technically accomplished as well. Mountain Biking Spain’s base sits at 400m up on a ridge overlooking the town. The view on a clear morning of the Filabres range beyond is stunning.

Mountain Biking Spain

Mountain Biking Spain

Despite the sunny weather in late March, early mornings were still cold, so riding started at a leisurely 1030. But with sunlight until 1900, there was plenty of hours for a good day’s riding. Daytime temperatures were in the mid to late teens during our week here with a couple of overcast days, but the previous week had been basking in 25+ degrees. So come prepared for all sorts, this is the mountains after all and the weather can turn quickly. Still, compared to back home, it was warm and it was sunny. Meeting up with the local club, C.C. Albjense one morning, I found them dressed in full winter kit (arm warmers, gilets, the lot). Compared to the summer temperatures, this is still firmly their winter.

The terrain out here is, on the whole, dry and loose, with the surface being stony and rocky, it’s easy to get caught out on corners. Vic was very good at managing our eagerness to get riding on that first morning. The blue skies granting a clear view of the beckoning trails and the recently built Niner Air 9 Carbon was just begging to be ridden, it would be dust out there as opposed to the mud back home. A short ‘test’ track, typical of the terrain out here, drops down from Vic and Einat’s place, which Vic (highly) recommends we ride before heading into the hills. It’s rocky, loose. rutted and steep - quite different to the usual home trails. With overinflated tyres bouncing off rocks and loosing grip on corners, a few adjustments had to be made! Climbing back up was a similar experience loosing grip on the steep sections, even at times having to, ahem, walk sections. Several runs and pressure adjustments later I was ready to head for the hills. This is just the type of terrain tubeless systems were made for, enabling low pressures to maximise what grip their is. At least now I knew what to expect terrain wise and better to know that now than now than half way down a 5km descent with tyres trying to bin me into a tree as they wash out on every corner.

Mountain Biking Spain

Starting mid-morning at least allowed for a good breakfast, of which there were a couple of options. Fixing our own in the apartment or heading to the only bar in Almanzora for some very good coffee and tapas. Tapas here isn’t an evening meal out, but (proper) ‘snack’ food available right from early morning for people to start their day on. A good slab of Tortilla with bread or a lightly grilled demi baguette with grated tomato and freshly sliced cured ‘jamon’, accompanied of course by good (actually make that great) coffee made for a great start to the day, and fantastic fuel for the legs and soul.

Mountain Biking Spain

Mountain Biking Spain

From Alamanzora it is a few kms along a dry river bed before hitting the hills, giving time for the legs to warm up nicely. Just make sure that you do bring your climbing legs as to fully experience the riding here, you do have to climb to access some of the best trails. Much of the climbing is on fire road and can be taken at your leisure, There is sometimes the option of a technical, rocky climb, and a real challenge not to dab. Don’t be fooled, however, into thinking that all the fire roads are boring and easy riding. Most are rocky, loose, rutted with tough sections offering a challenge for any rider and long by UK standards. Take it steady though, it’s all too easy to let the first day’s eagerness get the better of you and go too hard on those first few climbs. With so many great trails to ride out here you’ll want to save the legs.

Thankfully, the effort of the climb is never without reward though, with sweet ridge lined singletrack and stunning bum-over-the-back-of-the-seat descents which will leave you grinning at the bottom. From the peaks, the views are stunning and it’s literally pick a trail, any trail. Every day will have you smiling by the end and eager to head out the next day - even if the legs beg “no more”. There is nothing ‘smooth’ about the trails here, they do demand focus and good bike handling skills making them so much fun to ride. With their excellent local knowledge, Vic and Einat can tailor routes and distance to suit rider preferences.

Mountain Biking Spain

Mountain Biking Spain

As an option for an ‘easier’ day, it’s possible to ride to the coast and back. It’s a 90km round trip all on trails. With little technical riding and only a few hills. It’s a pretty straight forward run to the coast, but a great option for a change of scenery, to soak up the ‘real’ spain and to wind the pace down a bit.

Located in the central Filabres sitting at 900m is the village of Senes, a good base for longer, more demanding descents and trails which top out around 1850m. Typically for the Filabres however, to get to the trail heads it is a ride literally straight up the mountain, but once there it’s switchback heaven back down with stunning views. It will challenge all your skills as a rider (particularly if you lose focus and admire those views too much) but have you grinning at the end. But bring suitable clothing as these are the high mountains of the region where the weather can change very quickly.

Consistent days of epically high cumulative height gain may suit some, but for others it may be too much. So you can take the option of heading a few kms north east of Almanzora to Limaria for a day’s riding. From here the terrain is just as fun, but more rolling hills than pointy crags. Where this area is lacking in height, it is not lacking in fun trails to ride with plenty of fast, flowing routes, ridge top singletrack and some great ribbon-like descents. It was quite refreshing to have an ‘easier’ day of riding to let the legs recover some and the less brutal terrain is every bit as entertaining.

Staying with Mountain Biking Spain

Both Vic and Einat (pronounced Ay-Nat) are passionate about what they do and the riding in this area. As such, they have totally integrated themselves into the local community, speak fluent Spanish and are an active part of the local club, C.C. Albjense, located down the road in Albox. Einat races on the marathon circuit and is regularly seen on the podium. What you get here is a genuinely rural Spanish experience. They can advise on the best places to eat, visit or go out. If Einat and Vic won’t eat at a particular restaurant or bar they just won’t recommend it. Both are super friendly characters who are just happy to show people around ‘their’ local trails. Start to chat to them about bikes and riding the local area, you’ll be there for hours! The cured ‘jamon’ out here has to be tasted to be believed! The good stuff isn’t cheap, but it’s so worth it. Einat can organise a ride with the local club in Albox. It’s an early start on a Sunday, but great fun and a chance to ride the terrain on the other side of the valley. It is a faster pace and expect some friendly competition on the climbs! Those boys are quick!

You do need a reasonable level of fitness and skill to get the most out of the extensive riding out here as it’s pretty tough going and you have to do it all under your own steam. But it’s challenging yet rewarding, and a whole heap of fun.

Accommodation comes in the form of four authentic and beautifully rustic spanish houses all fully equipped and self-catered: http://www.mountainbikingspain.com/accommodation

For transfers info: http://www.mountainbikingspain.com/travel-information

For prices and booking: http://www.mountainbikingspain.com/prices-and-packages

Mountain Biking Spain

Mountain Biking Spain

How to get here

I flew from Bristol to Alicante. From there it’s a 2 hours transfer to Almanzora. Murcia is a fraction closer at 1 hour 45 minutes and it’s a smaller military airport which could mean quicker baggage claims and less risky handling of your bike! Almeria is the closest airport at 1 hour away, Vic can do picks up, but there may be a charge depending on the amount of people. Please check the website or email them for up to date prices.

Accommodation wise, Mountain Biking Spain can offer a number of options to suit various budgets. All are self catering, trailside and bike friendly. Details can be found on their website.

At the present time Mountain Biking Spain are the only fully legal mountain biking company operating in the the Almanzora valley. This means that they meet all the professional standards for guiding in this area.

If you don’t want to take your own bike, they do have a hire fleet of long travel hardtails which are well equipped for the trails out here.

Useful links

Mountain Biking Spain (accomodation and guiding): http://www.mountainbikingspain.com/
Wiki entry for Sierra de Los Filabres: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sierra_de_Los_Filabres

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