The Epic Ride - The Trans Cambrian Way (but that was news to us).

My friend Neecol had the idea to copy a mate’s route and ride off road from the Welsh border to the coast in 3 days. A busy few weeks for all of us meant that the planning for our trip was a little light, but we had the maps (rather oddly aligned, annotated laminated ones) and bikes so what else is there to worry about? It was only later we realised our maps were missing day 3 and our daily distances had been gauged with a satnav and not memory map. All a bit vague, but excitable, we 3 female northern souls made it to Knighton a healthy 5 minutes late and found Graeme (Essex representation) already waiting for his morning cuppa in one of Knighton’s 4 cafes.

The Trans Cambrian Way

The Ladies!

Neecol could still recall the briefing with regards the ins/outs/highs/lows of the route the friend had provided and from this we knew day 1 and day 3 were to be the shorter days. So we decided we had time for soup and chit chat before the start; working out if we had doubled up on kit. We were keen to keep weight to a minimum. Extra to the usual spares and waterproofs were spokes c/o Graeme (in 2 sizes, most efficient!) and agreement to share toothpaste. ‘Evening wear’ was minimal – and rather questionable in some cases. Graeme rode a hardtail, Linda a hardtail with V-brakes; Neecol and I rode full sussers.

and agreement to share toothpaste

Day 1 – Knighton to Rhayader

We set off at 1pm in high spirits. Starting out on nice quiet roads we finally hit bridleway and grassy tufts 8km in. Some early discussions, compass waving, checking of bridleway options and general testing of each others abilities resulted in Neecol and I taking on the map reading. A slightly rusty slow start but soon we were up to speed. We followed the Glyndwrs Way for much of the first day. Generally the navigation was straight forward with bridleways sign-posted but not always!

The Trans Cambrian Way

Ford

There was just a small ford to cross, some rolling grassy hills and a day filled with lots of laughs. The sunshine we started with slowly faded into the cloud and an early brief shower found us riding under greyer skies for the rest of the afternoon. Our ‘short’ ride day turned out to be 30 miles (which we could of course have calculated in the cafe if we’d all stopped chatting long enough...) 5 hours after starting out and in heavy rain Neecol and I spotted a road sign to our B&B (which wasn’t in the town itself). Unfortunately Linda and Graeme (faster riders than Neecol and I ) had whizzed on ahead down the tarmac downhill to the town itself, so Neecol and I sheltered under a tree and were pleased when Graeme answered his telephone to instruct them to cycle back up the hill!

The Trans Cambrian Way

Grassy climbs

Our B&B was Beili Neuadd. Their bunk barn was fully booked so we were in the ‘chalet’ which was self contained and perfect for us. We had a room each, how luxurious! The owners kindly decided they also wanted Indian takeaway for their dinner so there was no need for us to get back on our bikes in the rain for supplies! We were very tired indeed considering it was just Day 1 (although my excuse is that it was just 5 days after the 7 day Trans Wales event). After an extremely large feast and some rather questionable TV it was an early night for all.

Day 2 Rhayader to Llanigurig

Following a great night’s sleep and a wonderfully big breakfast including home reared pork and homemade preserves we headed off at 9am for what was to be our longest day; 9.5 hours in total!

Cycling through Rhayader we headed to the Caban-coch Reservoir. The fantastic scenery started early today, and remained with us all day. It was truly spectacular, unlike the weather. Cycling along the northern edge of the Claerwen Reservoir the water looked dark and deep, with the wind rippling the surface. The track around the northern edge was great for riding, and small dips and turns helped shelter us from what the head wind. Feeling altogether remote it seemed quite strange to see two lone fishermen by the water’s edge.

The Trans Cambrian Way

Map reading Claerwen Reservoir

The good track continued after the reservoir ended, heading uphill on tarmac where Graeme punctured, providing a good excuse to share the huge bag of tortilla crisps from Linda’s pannier bag – not a recognised cycle food but a nice change from energy bars and sweets! The route became much more rolling after the reservoir and was slower going. We noticed we had been following 2 other bike tracks for some time, and assumed we were not the only riders on our route!

Weariness hit us all by 3pm, as did the wish for something ‘proper’ to eat. We chose to take a diversion from our cycle route into the small town of Pont–rhyd-y-groes, where we found the owners of the 2 bike tracks we’d been following. They were munching on hot ready meals from the shop. We joined them and gorged ourselves on hot quiche, sandwiches, flapjacks and hot chocolates! On talking to the other cyclists we learnt that our route wasn’t a random one created by Neecol’s friend but was in fact the “Trans Cambrian Way!” It felt good to feel that we were doing something recognised and can claim it on a cycle touring ticklist should we chose to create it.

claim it on a cycle touring ticklist

In pouring rain we arrived at Llangurig and our B&B. It was a slightly retro affair, with the lady advising us immediately that the shower was outside. Showering outside, to then get back on the bikes in the rain, to cycle to the pub for dinner was just too much to endure we dropped off our bags and headed straight to the pub. They were surprisingly welcoming of four stinky cyclists at The Bluebell, despite the pile of wet jackets and shoes by our table. We ordered beers and wine, food, and a bit more wine – and finally once again saw our 2 new cycle chums.

Day 3 Llanigurig to Machynlleh

We tucked into another very good breakfast, although the majority of the sausages were wrapped in napkins and taken with us for elevenses (more quality cycling food!) Today’s riding was very diverse and included a careful scramble down to a bridged ravine and then up the other side, slipping and sliding down a steep greasy slate slab, cycling up a hard climb towards a cairn with amazing views across a purple valley and a much deserved grassy steep fast descent!

The Trans Cambrian Way

Obstacles to cross

The Trans Cambrian Way

Wet and greasy

The Trans Cambrian Way

Stunning views

Our quality map reading skills failed us both when nearing Machynlleh. We couldn’t find a left turn into some woodland we were looking for and after a quick debate we opted for a tarmac alternative of the same distance. The logic was that we’d be eating and drinking much sooner taking this route. So we cruised along our final stretch enjoying discussions about what we’d be ordering to eat.

Unfortunately whilst at the cafe in town, Graeme was not feeling well, so we cut our eating time short and headed for our B&B, popping him into a room on his own, as by this stage he was very green at the gills! As he slept, we did a cycle tour of the highlights of Machynlleh. It’s a nice town, but it was a short tour!

Day 4 Machynlleh to Knighton (on road)

The plan today had been to cycle back along road to the cars, which was 22 miles on an A road. Graeme wasn’t much better, though, so we opted for the train from Machynlleh to Caersws, which looked to be halfway. It worked out perfectly and when we finally got back in the saddle it was on gentle, rolling, kind tarmac lanes, much better than we’d expected. There was pretty scenery, rural houses and lots of dairy herds.

The final ride was 18 miles in and all and we were boisterous as we were now nearing the journey’s end. Then I had a blow out! There was a loud bang. My rear tyre edge had shredded (still not sure why, it was in good condition and was relatively new. The hole was too large for a tyre patch so I stayed put by the roadside with my bike and pannier bags waiting to be picked up. 20 mins later I was scooped off the roadside – a strange ending for me as it still feels that I didn’t quite have my “finishers glory” moment.

There was a loud bang. My rear tyre edge had shredded

Back into Knighton we had slightly larger appetites than when last there; and amazingly we were in dry clothes! Green-gilled Graeme managed some lunch but still looked decidedly peeky, but the chef brought out an award winning leek for our viewing which cheered him up a lot! It all happens in Knighton!

The Trans Cambrian Way